November 2008
Sleeping next to Gilad Shalit’s house
Aviva Gilad’s mother
They don’t want you to feel sorry for them, but they also don’t want you to stay away from guestrooms they built with
their own hands for fear of vacationing in a community with so much emotional baggage. ‘Accommodating people at this beautiful place where we chose to live 20 years ago, seemed to me like the best thing to do,’ says kidnapped soldier’s mother
Gilad Shalit is still alive,’ says the sign placed at the entrance to the Western Galilee community of Mitzpe Hila, as if wishing to signal to those who have not noticed that this is the place where the kidnapped soldier’s family lives and this is where he grew up before being taken captive by terrorists at the Kerem Shalom military post in 2006.
Some 140 families live here in modest houses facing the woods, and most are united in their support for the Shalit family and in the battle for Gilad’s release.
I spent 24 hours in Mizpe Hila, which has made the headlines in the past two years, and was met with a splendid view from the balconies, warmhearted hospitality at the unique guestrooms, and more than 40 travel routes by foot, field cars, two-wheel vehicles and bicycles.
Open on weekdays as well
“The embrace we get from our neighbors is heartwarming,” confirms Gilad’s mother, Aviva, who continues with great efforts to nurture the two pleasant guestrooms in the wooden cabins she built about four years ago.
The rooms are spacious, warmly furnished, have a large Jacuzzi and a balcony facing the forest. Shalit, as most of her neighbors who own guestrooms, views the accommodation business as a perquisite. The breakfast is prepared by Aviva herself on weekends when she doesn’t work outside the house.
“I have been working at the American Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel for a long period of my life, and in recent years I reached the conclusion that I want an additional source of income for the future of the family. Accommodating people at this beautiful place, where we chose to live 20 years ago, seemed to me like the most suitable thing to do.”
Do your guests come here because of the publicity you gained due to the grave circumstances?
“Our first names don’t appear on our website, so some of the guests don’t even know where they’re coming to. Those who open the guest book and read what people wrote to us understand who we are.
“Sometimes, when I have the mental strength, I talk to the guests and answer their questions. At the end of the day we receive a lot of support and sympathy from most of the people who come here.”
But this sympathy could easily become burdensome.
“Several weeks ago one of our guests, and I have no idea who it was, distributed a petition on the internet asking people to come stay with us, hinting that we need the money. I would like to make it clear that I don’t want people to be under the impression, God forbid, that we are poor. We work and make an honest living.
“But the people of Israel’s response was immediate. We received hundreds of phone calls from people who wanted to spend the weekend here. Naturally we couldn’t meet the demand and had to send some of the guests to stay with our neighbors. On weekends there’s no problem, the guestrooms are full, but we would be happy to accommodate more people on weekdays as well.”
Isifiya and Daliat El Carmel
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| The Druze village of Isfiya is located on the top of the Carmel Mountain commanding a panoramic view of the surrounding green hills. The village has a rich tradition of openness, hospitality, and warmth that is characteristic of the Druze community. | |||
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The Druze village of Isfiya is located on the top of the Carmel Mountain commanding a panoramic view of the surrounding green hills. The village has a rich tradition of openness, hospitality, and warmth that is characteristic of the Druze community. Its special location and rich ethnic tradition and culture have proved especially attractive for travelers and tourists.
Isfiya was first established during the 17th and 18th century by Druze from the mountains of Lebanon. They were later joined by several Egyptian families, and in 2003 the village was merged with the neighboring Druze village of Daliat El Carmel. The two unified villages are known today as Ir Carmel. The village has opened itself to tourists, while at the same time preserving its traditional Druze life style. The Druze are well-known for their warm hospitality and receive guests with smiling enthusiasm. The Isfiya residents are no exception, and welcome visitors into their homes, where they can get a close glimpse of Druze religious customs and traditions.
Visitors can walk through the narrow streets of the village and wander through the picturesque alleyways on their own, but it is recommended to go with a guide, who will add to your visit by showing you around and telling you interesting stories about the community. In the center of the village are several old buildings built in the style characteristic of northern Israel and southern Lebanon. There is also an olive press in the impressive ancient quarter where visitors can learn about the process of making olive oil and make oil candles. The main street of the village has a lively bazaar filled with a variety of colorful shops. Nearby restaurants serve guests spicy ethnic foods. The colorful market is filled with visitors on Shabbat and is a noisy, festive place filled with exotic aromas and colors. Visitors who wish to learn about the Druze culture from close up can lodge in an authentic Druze home or in guesthouses run by the local residents. Guests can enjoy traditional foods, listen to stories, and watch special performances of traditional music, song and dance. Those who would like to have a religious experience can visit the Druze house of prayer, the mosque, or in the Catholic-Maronite Church. The western entrance to Isfiya has a beautiful promenade overlooking the view. Isfiya is a good departure point for nature walks in the Carmel Mountains nearby. Daliyat el-Carmel is a colorful village that offers wonderful hospitality with a smile and is also very interesting. Daliyat el-Carmel was founded in the 17th century by Druze from Mt. Lebanon. Daliyat el-Carmel’s colorful market, open on Saturdays, is only an excuse to come to this special place. On the main street dozens of stores offer their varied wares and one can get lost in the abundance and variety. Between the stores are many restaurants serving genuine Druze ethnic foods, bakeries that fill the air with the sweet smell of baklava pastries. Other food stands sell high quality olive oil, olives, pita bread and locally produced labaneh cheese. The flurry of activity, the colors, the new beside the old, and the village bustling with people are a multi-sensational experience not to be missed. The market also has a few galleries where cultural evenings can be held, alongside the Druze hospitality. Apart from Daliyat el-Carmel’s main street, with its tourist center, on The Druze heritage house is on 8th Street and houses an exhibit about the Druze lifestyle. One can also just wander around the village to no specific place; walk through the narrow passageways that wind their way between old houses, prayer halls and holy sites, beside olive oil presses, textile workshops and art galleries. In recent years the villagers have begun hosting groups in their homes, and such a visit offers a glimpse of their houses, culture and tradition. The local residents offer tourists and genuine ethnic foods, wear their traditional clothes, tell stories about the Druze heritage and there are even guest houses designed with an authentic Druze décor. |
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The Chagall Windows in Jerusalem
Marc Chagall the Artist
Ammunition Hill in Jerusalem
The Tefen Industrial Park
The industrial park contains an open museum that exhibits temporary exhibitions of Israeli artists, a permanent exhibit depicting the history of the German immigration, a sculpture garden containing sculptures of numerous styles, and an exhibit dedicated to the development of Israeli industry.
Dead Sea, Red Sea nominated for ‘7 natural wonders’ list
After success of ranking world’s new seven wonders in 2007, founder Bernard Weber decides to send team to photograph candidates for list of new natural wonders; Israel’s seas currently ranked 17th, 18th
Last week the Dead Sea and the Red Sea were nominated to join the list of the “New Natural Seven Wonders” of the world. The nominations were announced by three children, environmental activists from Israel, Jordan and the Palestinian Authority.
The new natural wonders project follows the global success gained by Bernard Weber, who founded the New Seven Wonders election last year. Over 100 million people worldwide participated in the vote, to replace the outdated list of ancient sites.
The list – including structures famous in the ancient world for their feats of construction, such as the pyramids of Giza in Egypt – was compiled during the Roman period in ancient Greece. The site of the pyramids is the only one of these wonders that can still be seen today.
On July 7, 2007 the new seven wonders were announced in Lisbon, Portugal, but the vote for the seven natural wonders is still on, offering voters a chance to choose through the New7Wonders website. There are currently 77 sites to choose from, and these will be narrowed down to 21 on July 21, 2009. Then the vote for the final seven will begin.
Warner’s team is currently touring the world in order to photograph these unique places, and it has already chosen both the Red Sea (currently ranked 17th) and the Dead Sea (ranked 18th) as finalists. They are competing with sites such as the Grand Canyon and the Ganges River.
The Dead Sea was chosen for its status as the lowest place on earth as well as its rich history, and also in order to raise global awareness for the need for its preservation. The coral reef in Eilat was chosen for its unique marine life.
Ancient jewel, Hebrew text discovered in the city of David
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The text is thought to be the most significant archaeological discovery in Israel since the Dead Sea Scrolls. |
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A 2,000 year old gold earring inlaid with pearls and precious stones has been discovered beneath a parking lot in the City of David in Jerusalem. “The earring was astonishingly well preserved, so much so that it seems it was manufactured only yesterday. The data we have available today indicates that the earring, which was discovered in the ruins of a building which dates to the Byzantine period, was apparently originally produced during the course of the Roman period,” said Dr. Doron Ben-Ami and Yana Tchekhanovets from the Israel Antiquities Authority, which is conducting the evacuation. A year ago a large impressive edifice that dates to the end of the Second Temple period was exposed during excavations in the same parking lot. Based on evidence from the writings of Josephus Flavius, the building that was uncovered was probably erected by the Hadyab family. The most famous member of that family was Queen Heleni, who converted to Judaism and moved to Jerusalem, where she was buried.
The 3,000 year old finding is thought to be the most significant archaeological discovery in Israel since the Dead Sea Scrolls-predating them by 1,000 years. Initial interpretation suggests that the pottery shard inscribed with writing, may be a legal text with insights into Hebrew law, society and beliefs. |
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What is a kibbutz in Israel?
A kibbutz is an Israeli commune, or intentional community. The first kibbutz was founded during the Second Aliyah, the second wave of Jewish immigration to Palestine, in 1909, and kibbutzim remain a viable Israeli institution today. Though kibbutzim have undergone many transformations over the years and have never accounted for more than seven percent of the Israeli population, the kibbutz has immense cultural significance.
The first kibbutz, “Degania,” was founded by Joseph Baratz and eleven other members, including two women, with the goal of bringing Jewish Zionst ideals to Israel. Zionists, who became active in late 19th century Russia as a result of anti-Semitic persecution, sought a homeland in Palestine in which Jews would work the land. After the First Aliyah in the 1880s, Jewish immigrants in Palestine had begun hiring Arabs to work their farms. Baratz opposed this practice and started the first kibbutz as a result.
In the early days, kibbutzim held fast to socialist ideals. There was no private property, not even tools or clothing, all work was shared, and land was owned communally. The bulk of the work was agricultural.
Kibbutzim attempted to build a self-sufficient economy, but this proved unfeasible. Instead, they were supported by subsidies from charities and later from the Israeli government. Today, most kibbutzim are no longer strictly socialist, though they do retain many communal aspects. All kibbutzim, for example, are democratic.
Over time, it became clear that agricultural work was not enough to sustain the institution of the kibbutz. Kibbutzim began to industrialize, with a large surge in that direction during the 1960s. Some kibbutzim focused on military efforts. Today, some kibbutzim have even turned to the tourism industry. The kibbutz has a long history of political and cultural contributions to Israel as well. A disproportionate amount of Israeli government and military leaders, artists, and intellectuals have come from kibbutzim.
There are many differences among kibbutzim, though they are outweighed by the similarities. The first kibbutzim were socialist, secular, and agriculturalist, whereas later kibbutzim either retained these ideals or became variously religious or militaristic, spanning different points on the political spectrum. Some kibbutzim became quite large, with as many as 1,500 members, while others remained small.
The kibbutz system has met with controversy over the years. Some groups have been criticized for elitism, while others have been accused of straying from their ideals. Nevertheless, Israeli culture would not be the same without the kibbutz. It is a specifically Israeli institution that has made invaluable contributions to the nation’s political, economic, and intellectual lie.
Elvis in the holy Land
The Elvis Inn
Set a bit off the Jerusalem-Tel Aviv highway, near the Kibbutz Neveh Ilan Guest House, is the shrine of shlock, the ultra in kitsch: the Elvis Inn gas station, restaurant, bar and grill and tourist trap, run by owners and brothers Amnon and Uri, along with Uri’s son, Amir, and several staffers.
While it’s certainly not Graceland, the neo-50s and 60s décor does get you in the mood, with a 16-foot-high golden statue of Elvis in the parking lot alongside the entrance, and a second even larger one nearby, with one arm raised, seemingly waving towards Jerusalem.
There are more than 1,000 pictures, posters, and postcards covering nearly every flat surface, sent by fans and like-minded Elvis lovers worldwide. There are also four life-sized Elvis statues scattered around the premises in various poses, sitting at a table, strumming a guitar, and, in general watching over the place.Elvis certainly brings different people together: on the afternoon I visited, the Inn was hosting 24 eighth-graders and staff of Atlanta’s Greenfield Hebrew Academy. Meanwhile, a 130-member-strong Christian pilgrimage group from London sat primly at the booths and tables inside, but still gawked at the memorabilia-studded décor. Over in the corner booth overlooking the verdant Judean hills, five rowdy Israeli men and women quaffed beers over a long lunch, laughing and digging the scene.
The Elvis Inn started, “about 30 years ago, when our family took over this location, which was pretty run down,” Yoeli says. “Since my brother and I were Elvis fans, we brought over a few pictures from our house and hung them up. Soon tourists started coming around and were impressed, and we kept finding pictures of Elvis. Tourists — especially from the United States — also sent us pictures and articles,” he recalls, and says that at one stage they began holding ceremonies on Elvis’ birthday, January 8, 1935, and anniversary of his death, August 16, 1977 at age 42.
The Inn has kept on through war and peace, tourists and terrorism, and innumerable impersonators ever since. The place has slowly grown, along with the ebb and flow of the tourist buses unloading wide-eyed visitors for a photo-op and snack.
But when they hold the memorial service, it’s not a staid affair. “Film crews from around the world show up,” according to Yoeli, with reporters from “China, Japan, the U.S. and Europe … and [Israel Radio's] Reshet Gimmel Network provides a live feed throughout the day.”
And then it’s time for the squad of Elvis impersonators to don the sequined cape, pomade the ‘do, and belt out the hits — albeit with varying degrees of success. “There’s a big party here then,” he says.
“Over the years, we’ve collected thousands of pictures and articles; gathered an entire library of books about Elvis, including many ‘proving’ that Elvis is still alive. It’s like a cult,” Yoeli says, slowly shaking his head from side to side.
“We were in communication with Priscilla [Presley], who was supposed to come for the ceremony, but cancelled out, apparently due to the intifada,” Yoeli surmises. Other guests were Elvis’ performance costume seamstress, as well as the man whose claim to fame was announcing, “Elvis has left the building” as concerts concluded.
Another group the intifada doesn’t faze, and arrives regularly, is a contingent of U.S. Marines. Yoeli says the restaurant has an informal agreement with the American authorities that whenever one of the Navy destroyers docks at Haifa, the crew visits the Inn. “When they arrive, it’s one big party. They see Elvis, feel at home, and we turn up the volume — some get up and dance,” Yoeli says.